By Peter Elsner, Howard I. Maibach
This article defines what constitutes cosmeceuticals and discusses quite a few periods of goods, from anti-ageing skincare and service, anti-acne, and hair-growth compounds to brokers for treating pores and skin infections, rashes and irritations. It incorporates a bankruptcy via Dr Albert Kligman, Emeritus Professor of Dermatology on the collage of Pennsylvania college of drugs, who coined the time period cosmeceuticals
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Extra resources for Cosmeceuticals: Drugs vs. Cosmetics (Cosmetic Science and Technology)
These claims are generally related to the broad perception of whether the cosmetic or skin-care aspects, the potential cosmeceutical action, or a proven pharmaceutical effect is being claimed and advertised. In this regard, everything from consumer statements, consumer panel testing, instrumentation results, clinical testing results, to absence or presence of statements regarding alteration of structure or function of the skin must be considered in evaluating, regulating, and advertising a product.
The known effects of capsaicin on skin sensory function as well as the observations of synthesis of nerve growth factor (NGF) and other biologically active factors by keratinocytes should stimulate further research in this interesting area. A decrease in immune competence of aged skin has been repeatedly demonstrated and UVR is known to be highly immunosuppressive. This complicated interaction continues to be an extremely important area of research (7). COSMECEUTICAL PRODUCT TESTING Product Attributes The consumer can personally judge certain charateristics of the product and, although there is a wide range of acceptable characteristics, certain general principles apply.
In fact, however, the matter is far from simple, as modern moisturizers have achieved a sophistication and multiplicity of potential effects in parallel with our increasing knowledge of stratum corneum barrier function and kinetics of skin hydration and transepidermal water loss. There is no universally accepted clinical or biomechanical definition of dry skin, although photoaged skin is frequently described as dry. Dry skin may be clinically rough, scaly, less flexible, and dry to the touch. Instrumental measurements may reveal changes in skin surface topography such as irregularity of stratum corneum and abnormal desquamation by profilometric evaluation or sticky tape application.